Greeting eaters and readers and holiday shoppers! We lived it up for breakfast this past weekend, in a manner that was commensurate with our newly indulgent soccer mornings, lounging around with the dogs and whoever wanted to come over to watch the World Cup. On Saturday, there was a bagel and lox shebang, and, on Sunday, predictably, the famous waffles made their first appearance of the season. (Hot tip: toast leftover waffles the next day and spread your best jam on top.) Otherwise, I spent most of my weekend scrolling twitter for White Lotus memes, or texting friends about White Lotus theories, or listening to recap podcasts about White Lotus theories, or looking at the clock to see if it’s TIME ALREADY to watch The White Lotus yet, omg the agony! How did I ever survive in a pre-streaming world? Herewith, your Three Things for the week…
1. The DALS Holiday Gift Guide
I’m a little late this year (sorry! How many things can I blame on White Lotus?) but at long last, the 2022 Dinner: A Love Story Holiday Gift Guide is here. In keeping with tradition, I have focused on gifts for the eaters and readers in your life — which is another way of saying moms, dads, sisters, sons, daughters, parents, brothers, teachers, besties, the friend who has everything, the coworker whose name you plucked from the Secret Santa cap, the neighbor who you keep meaning to thank for walking your dog that time you were stuck in another state…everyone! Happy shopping, happy holidays.
P.S. Deal Alert
As long as you’re shopping, remember my partner Nakano is giving Dinner: A Love Story readers 30% off ALL their gorgeous knives with code DINNER. My favorites are anything from the Classic Chef's Series and that wood-handled Mito Series is the prettiest, best deal going, even without the discount. Sale ends Sunday December 11.
2. Light Meals for All the Other Days
We have a bunch of big dinners out in the next few weeks and while I’m certainly not complaining, I know from experience that in between all the deliciously indulgent holiday outings, I am going to be craving some lighter meals. In case you find yourself in a similar scenario, here are a few options for those lighter meals: Tortilla Soup (you can limit the tortilla strips if you want); Pizza Salad with White Beans (that link is for subscribers only, but there’s an instagram reel which should show you everything you need to know), the ever beloved, ever virtuous-in-the-best-way Tofu-Cabbage-Kale-Avocado Salad with citrusy ginger dressing from The Weekday Vegetarians (page 65). Lastly, if you have access to good seafood, there’s no better option than steamed clams with a simple green salad — I’m not even upper-casing the name of the recipe, because steaming clams is hardly even a recipe. It's easy and fast, it only dirties up one pot, and clams are, on the farmer's market spectrum, a relative bargain. There are endless variations to this dish -- spicy, not spicy; garlicky, not garlicky; wine, no wine; basil, or tarragon -- but here’s how we usually do it.
Steamed Little Necks
Maybe the best part: there's no stress about overcooking or undercooking when it comes to clams; these things literally open their mouths and tell you when they're done. The clams provide their own salt, so hold off until the end and decide if it needs more. Serve with a simple green salad that’s been tossed with Lemon-Dijon dressing.
Serves 4
1 small shallot, chopped
1 large garlic clove, minced (or more, to taste)
red pepper flakes, to taste
freshly ground black pepper
2-3 dozen fresh clams (about 8 per person, keeping in mind there will always be a few stubborn ones that do not open and must be discarded), washed and scrubbed
1/2 cup white or rose wine
1 cup chopped tomatoes (any kind)
1/2 cup chopped parsley (or basil)
crusty bread (for sopping)
In a Dutch Oven set over medium heat, saute the shallot, garlic clove, a few shakes of red pepper flakes, and some freshly ground pepper in olive oil. When the shallot is soft, add the clams and wine. Cover and reduce heat to medium low. When the clams steam open, about 5 to 10 minutes, add the tomatoes and herbs, and simmer another two or three minutes. Discard any clams that haven’t opened, and ladle the remaining clams (with their broth), dividing evenly, between four serving bowls. Serve with salad and sliced, crusty bread for sopping.
3. An Old-School Whiskey Sour
My ideal holiday night? Trimming the tree while listening to John Fahey’s Christmas album…and eating latkes. (I gave up on keeping the holidays separate a long time ago — my mom is Presbyterian, my dad is Jewish — which is probably why my daughters ask when the latkes will be ready as soon as the tree is slipped into its stand.) This year, though, Andy made a batch of old-school Whiskey Sours for the occasion, and now I’d like to submit the cocktail to the Holiday Tradition Committee for 2023 approval and beyond. I love a citrusy bourbon drink (SEE: Brown Derby) and this one, with its orange slice and bright cherry, just felt festive and right. Might I suggest them for your own tree trimming, or holiday guests, or cocktails before Christmas dinner?
Whiskey Sour
Makes 1 drink; can be doubled or batched
2 ounces bourbon
¾ ounce fresh lemon juice
¾ ounce simple syrup*
very thin orange slice
maraschino cherry
Add bourbon, lemon juice, and simple syrup to a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake, then strain into coupes and garnish with orange and cherry.
*You can either simmer sugar and water in a small saucepan at a ratio of 1:1 until sugar has dissolved, or do what I do: save yourself a pot to clean and vigorously shake the sugar and water in a jam jar until there’s no sign of sugar grains.
P.S. Share the Love
If you are enjoying my newsletter, consider giving a gift subscription to someone who shares your love story for all things dinner. A subscription is $50/year or $5/month. You can press this little button to schedule the delivery, whether that’s right now, the first night (or eighth night!) of Hanukkah or on Christmas Day.
Thanks as always for being here,
Jenny
My favorite cocktail in the world is a whiskey sour, but I never make it at home. I guess I’ll give it a whirl this weekend. I love the idea of tree/latke/whiskey sour triumvirate.
I’m in the mood for babka now