Three Things

Some thoughts on brunch, one-pot pasta for the baby-stepping vegetarian, the evergreen Trader Joe's hit list

Good morning everyone. Just one quick thing before we get to your weekly dispatch: I wanted to remind my fellow New Yorkers: I’m at Fishs Eddy (Broadway and 19th) tomorrow, Friday, May 6, from 5:00-7:00, selling and signing The Weekday Vegetarians — if you already own a book, come anyway. I have a little surprise for the first handful of people who show up. I’ll sign your copy and then you can treat yourself to some vintage platters and table settings. Herewith, your Three Things…

1. Some Brunch Thoughts

I am not hosting or attending a brunch for Mother’s Day, but for those of you who are looking for some indulgent ways to spoil mom mid-day, perhaps consider the Artichoke-Parm Quiche on page 116 of The Weekday Vegetarians, which would be wonderful rounded out with big salad and a classic bagel and smoked salmon spread. (Remember my formula for a perfect brunch?) Speaking of salmon: There is a brand new book out about the history of Zabar’s, the iconic food emporium on New York’s Upper West Side, famous for, among millions of other things, its paper-thin hand-sliced Nova...

…and I found this little salmon-related trick wedged in between the delightful anecdotes: “The usual rule of thumb of one-quarter pound per person can make for a very pricey brunch,” writes Lori Zabar, granddaughter of the founder. With this dip, Tiffany Ludwig, Zabar’s artistic director, created “a sophisticated, easy-to-make spread that stretches a quarter pound of Nova Scotia much further.” Thank you for that, Zabar Family, and now I am of course craving Babka.

Zabar’s Nova Cream Cheese Spread
Serve on bagel chips, bagels, rye bread, crackers, or alongside carrot sticks. Can be made ahead and refrigerated. Makes 2 cups, serves 6-8 as an hors d’oeuvre. (Edited and tested by Monita Buchwald.)

8 ounces cream cheese (preferably Zabar’s)
4 ounces sour cream
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 to 2 tablespoons capers, drained
2 tablespoons minced red onion
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
4 ounces smoked nova salmon, finely chopped (preferably Zabar’s)

Mix together the cream cheese and sour cream in a medium bowl until smooth. Add the lemon juice, capers, red onion, and dill. Stir until combined. Gently fold in the nova until evenly mixed.

2. One-Pot Pasta with Beans & Peas (and ok, a little sausage)

So you’ve decided to become a Weekday Vegetarian: Congratulations! Only problem? The rest of your family is just…not on board yet. So how do you stay the course without becoming a short-order cook on overdrive? The answer: Meet Them Where They Are. Dialing back on meat is a process, and if the goal here is reducing as opposed to eliminating, then wear that hat when you are making some chicken- or sausage- or beef-based family favorites. We had dinner with some friends last week who said they are “trying to do the weekday vegetarian thing,” but it's been hard, especially because one of their kids who, when served spaghetti, will ask "Where are the meatballs?" Presenting: Orecchiette with Peas, Beans and OK a Little Sausage*. It calls for only six ounces of sausage for four servings, which actually ends up being enough, thanks to catcher’s-mitt-shaped orecchiette, which excels at trapping the little bits in each bite. Those little bites of sausage have so much flavor that I honestly don’t feel like the sacrifice is too huge. Related: Bean Burritos with or without Chorizo is another good recipe for cooks constantly dealing with a hold-out at the table.

*definitely optimum SEO with that name lol

Reminder: Look for these “for the hold-out” notes throughout my book. We relied on that strategy SO heavily in the beginning of Operation Plant-Based Family Dinner. It’s not cheating, it’s baby stepping.

3. Trader Joe’s Hit List

Last week, I listened to an episode of Bon Appetit’s Food People, featuring Alex Beggs. The topic: Why are people so obsessed with Trader Joe’s? It’s always a great question, and particularly so when posed to Beggs, who wrote a hilarious long-running column devoted reviewing all of TJ’s newest releases — the good, the bad, and the tragic. (Here’s one of her more recent stories, about some new snacks on the shelves.) As you likely know, I find myself at Trader Joe’s all the time, which is strange because I’m not crazy about their produce (or their legendarily wasteful packaging of that produce), and I think I keep going back only because they have a dozen or so things that I am extremely attached to, either because of their uniqueness or their value. Are you this way, too? Here’s my list of things I never leave Trader Joe’s without:

100% Ruby Red Grapefruit Juice (I buy two at once); Cornichons; White Modena Vinegar (it’s not syrupy-sweet like so many other white balsamics); 100% Greek Kalamata Olive Oil (great value); Rainbow Peppercorns (best ASMR); 50% Less Salt Dry Roasted and Salted Almonds; Montmorency Pitted Dried Cherries; Corn & Wheat Tortillas; Organic Brown Rice (freezer); French Green Beans (for this lunch) Salsa Autentica; Organic Corn Chip Dippers (Andy’s favorite, basically Frito’s); Sesame Thins; 3-Seed Beet Crackers (great for color on a cheese spread and also GF); Hummus Dip; Gone Bananas! (frozen, dark-chocolate covered banana slices); and Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Cups. When the girls are home, I’ll throw the famous Cauliflower Gnocchi into the cart, along with a box of Frozen Hash Browns.

Jenny

P.S. Meal Plan Time for Subscribers…

…keep an eye out tomorrow (Friday) for this month’s weeknight meal plan (including shopping list) in your inbox. Or just refer to last month’s if you can’t wait that long.

FYI, local yokels: There are a few copies of my book at Picture Book in Dobbs Ferry and In2Green in Hastings if you’re looking for a last-minute gift for Mom.