Three Things
A mostly make-ahead Thanksgiving, my favorite kitchen gear, reasons to log off
Greetings eaters and readers…and voters! A few things making me happy this morning: Nick Kroll on Conan; two weeknight dinner parties in my November calendar; and book club tomorrow, where we will discuss Solito, Javier Zamora’s gripping, Odyssey-like memoir about his migration from El Salvador when he was nine years old, and, as the title suggests, alone. Highly recommend. For dinner tonight: either Lentil Salad with Jammy Tomatoes and Feta or Orecchiette with Peas, Beans, and Sausage if You Must — whichever one it is, we’ll probably have to eat it in front of the TV. Please hit the polls today! Here are your Three Things…
1. Be Your Own Thanksgiving Caterer
This year, the number of diners at our Thanksgiving table has increased by 38.5% — that is about as much math as I’d like to do today — which is, of course, wonderful, but because of this, I’ve been daydreaming about how to get on top of the feast prep. Not just how to get organized and get my mise on and all that, but how to actually be my own caterer — preparing everything ahead of time except maybe the turkey, then just figuring out the optimal way to reheat the goods. I know this might sound blasphemous, but I’m ok with sacrificing a small percentage of the quality/temperature if it means the happy chaos of the kitchen doesn’t tip over to stress. (And I use the term '“stress” very loosely; it’s more that I want to embrace the chaos, not be crushed by it.) I loved this story in the Times which argues that certain dishes — even mashed potatoes — get better when you make them in advance. There are, of course, givens when it comes to make-ahead: turkey stock, pies, cranberry sauce, cornbread — but I’m looking at everything anew with my make-ahead goggles this year, rethinking vegetables (maybe going with shaved salads instead of roasted platters?) or even eliminating dishes from the line-up if I can’t make them work. (I know! Ruthless!) In the two days leading up to the feast, I plan to batch cocktails (Paper Planes, French 75s, or Sangria ) assemble the starter snack plate (how cute is Marissa’s “Charcuturkey”), maybe steam my Brussels sprouts instead of roasting them (so they just have to finish quickly in a large skillet — note: not the oven — and be tossed with a pre-made glaze; recipe coming soon!), and even make all my gravy. For those of you who subscribe to Susan Spungen’s excellent newsletter, Susanality, she has instructions for a make-ahead gravy that she promises “will beat a last-minute pan gravy any day…all you have to do during crunch time is heat it up.” I am sold. Who is with me? Also: Why is it so fun to think about Thanksgiving?
P.S. Here is your annual reminder to start a dedicated Thanksgiving notebook like my mom does, where you can keep a record of recipes, attendees, triumphs, fails, leftovers. It gets better every year.
2. Kitchen Gear 101
In my first book, Dinner: A Love Story, I wrote a letter to my former, newly engaged self, walking her through a wedding registry and advising on the items that would earn their keep and the ones that would end up selling for two bucks at a future garage sale. It was satisfying to read the round-up again another decade later because the pots, pans, and gear I stood by then, I still stand by today. In any event, since I get asked about gear more than almost anything else, I’ve finally assembled a list of all my favorites (plus a few extras) all in one place. I will definitely add to it as needed. Happy shopping!
3. Reasons to Log Off
Lately, I’ve been struggling with what I think of as the 4:00 Kitchen Counter Phone Suck. Usually by that time of day, I’m done with work, but it’s absurdly early to think about dinner, so I’ve been just kind of standing and scrolling in the kitchen (what am I even looking for?) then wind up snapping out of the trance, practically throwing my phone across the room as if it’s on fire, and then walking around for a while feeling like my brain is wrapped in toxic cotton candy. I know you know what I mean. I think that’s why I loved “Reasons to Log Off,” a poem from Kate Baer’s new collection called And Yet. (Published today!) Baer won everyone’s hearts with What Kind of Woman a few years ago, and her observations on family, pandemic living, motherhood, friendship, body image, love and loss are unfailingly resonant. She was nice enough to let me share the poem. (Aren’t you now tempted to write your own version of it?) Thanks, Kate. I love your work.
Reasons to Log Off
The girl who said she could never eat a second slice
of pizza my senior year of college is doing really well.
My cousin posts a photo of a loaded gun. Have I ever
heard of the Second Amendment? Have I ever heard
of this new recipe? Cauliflower, a hint of lemon, some
chopped up ginger root. Hey, do you want to lose
weight in only thirty minutes? Hey, can I have just a
moment of your time? Click here to receive a special
invitation. Click here if you want to believe in God.
Tomorrow there’s a Pride walk to support the right to
marry. One comment says: I will pray for your affliction.
Another says: I hope you trip, fall down, and die.
Swipe up to find my new lip filler. Scroll down to read
why these four girls were horribly afraid. Greg is
asking for your number. Greg wants to send a
big surprise.
Have a good week. Please vote.
Jenny
