I just came back from South Ken, which has been "my" neighborhood in London since about 2015. Used to go 1-2x a year until sadly interrupted by the pando; went back over New Year's for a reset. South Ken is a great choice because you can take the Piccadilly line straight in from Heathrow — do not bother with the Heathrow Express, the Piccadilly line is longer but you don't have to change trains.
The best pub in the neighborhood is The Hereford Arms on Gloucester Road, and their dining room is great too (but you should book ahead). An alternate best is The Drayton Arms on Old Brompton Road; the second floor is a little theatre. The best supermarket is the Waitrose above the Gloucester Road Tube stop; I have bought a shocking amount of cheese there. There's a cool little Danish bakery that was new to me on Old Brompton Road very close to the South Ken Tube: Ole & Steen.
My. No. 1 not too long walking itin, a few hours with all stops, would be to take the Circle & District line from South Ken to Monument, get out, walk toward the river (pausing to admire the Monument to the Great Fire of London), climb up onto London Bridge, walk across the river, dive into Borough Market (visit: Spice Mountain; the duck sandwich place at the back; and the tiny oyster counter next to the duck place that must have been recommended on WeChat because the line almost always seems to be 50% Chinese visitors.) After duck, turn around and walk down Park Street and buy some Neal's Yard cheese. If the weather is nice, go up The Shard for the observation deck; otherwise, walk out of Borough on Cathedral Street past the replica of the Golden Hinde; turn left on Clink St. (where there used to be a prison, which is how we got "clink" for jails); go through a tunnel and emerge onto Bankside. Pass the rebuilt Globe Theatre (there are tours on non-performance days) and, if the tide is low, look for the steps that will take you down to the waterside, where people will probably be mudlarking. Come back up to street level at the next steps, which puts you at the Tate Modern, and give it a thorough exploration, it's an amazing building. After emerging from the museum, walk across the Millennium (Wiggly) Bridge to St. Paul's, explore that, and then go on from there.
(Not recommending restaurants because you said you are set, but I have thoughts if you need them.)
Also, of course, South Ken puts you right at the Natural History Museum and the V&A. A not-stressful thing to do on an arrival day is to walk up to Natural History and see if the "Wildlife Photographer of the Year" exhibit is open; the images are always gorgeous.
I loved In the Distance, Diaz's first book, so much that I ran out and bought Trust. I know I should like it more than I do. I think it's interesting and very well plotted and written, but it didn't grab me emotionally as did In the Distance. It's worth reading, but I won't re-read it.
I agree. Without giving too much away, it's a book with four sections. The first two novellas are interesting in terms of the characters and perspectives, but they're intentionally not very well written to reflect the time and the writers writing them. The third section is the best, in my view, in terms of the character's experience and perspective. The final I found interesting but unsatisfying. I wish Diaz had created a fifth section, perhaps revealing the perspective of the author of the first section.
Let your daughter drive the itinerary. My daughter was studying in London last year and when we went to visit I had the whole trip planned out. We did some amazing things, ate well and saw so much. On the second to last day, she burst into tears that there wasn't time for her to show us "her London", like where she and her friends get coffee or the fun pub around the corner, or the walk in the local park she likes and the funny lunch guy. Luckily we were able to pivot and squeezed in most of those places, I think these college kids are so excited to show us around for a change.
Follow Love and London on Instagram - she has great tips for seeing the city! Also, be sure to eat at Dishoom (wonderful Indian food) or any of the Ottolenghi restaurants
no london ideas, but i freeze chilies too. i go through jalapenos fast so those stay in the crisper - peel the stem off (do NOT chop it off, just grip the stem and peel back so the stem and little top bit comes off but leaves the pepper fully in tact) before you toss in the fridge and they'll last longer. it's the stems that get moldy. anyway, i freeze habaneros, scotch bonnets, and birds eye chilies. it's great because my grocery store only sells them in containers so you get a lot for short money but i'm not using two dozen of any of those in a recipe haha. i just freeze them whole - as you noted they defrost so quickly, and they're easily to slice when frozen too. they last forever and, let's face it for me, if one of those chilies loses a little potency, they're already mega hot to begin with so that's okay lol! i can always add more.
My son and I just returned from London yesterday specifically to attend football matches. (We are Spurs fans so that particular match didn't go as we hoped...) We both really enjoyed attending a Fulham match (we opted for the hospitality package through the Fulham website - a sit-down dinner in a historic building and tickets - a bit pricey but actually was fun) and a Brentford match. Both smaller grounds, one brand new and one with a lot of history. We purchased our Brentford tickets through their ticket exchange.) We love going to Tottenham and have had good luck purchasing hospitality through their website. Finally, on a prior trip we purchased a hospitality package through at Crystal Palace and really enjoyed that experience as well. The smaller grounds are fun and have a lot of character. Good luck! BTW we took the underground or trains to every ground and it worked really well.
I made your Harissa chicken tonight and it was NUTS!! My husband said it was one of his top five meals I have ever made! I happened to have a random potato in the fridge so I added that. The veggies were my favorite part and the carrots were sublime. I will definitely make it again and wonder if I could add LOTS more veggies?! So good - thank you!! PS - went to London for my first ever visit in June and I tore my retina on the first full day and after visiting four hospitals, I had to fly home for emergency treatment. I cannot wait to go back!!! Enjoy!
I love your trifecta of food, travel, and books. I just handed The Fault in Our Stars to my 14 yr old. I now plan to have this dinner party, and I already can’t wait for the London recap. Just one other thing - what color paint is that awesome kitchen door?
I haven’t been in a few years, but my don’t-misses every time I get the chance to be there are stationary shopping at Paper Chase, checking out whatever Zara Home has to offer since we don’t have that here and, though it may seem touristy and cliche, high tea at Fortnum & Mason never gets old. It’s everything I want and the service goes out of their to make everyone feel welcome. And last, walking through Hyde Park to visit the Serpentine Gallery. I’m so jealous!
Sir John Soane’s House/Museum is really fabulous. It only takes an hour or so and appeals to all. A house of curiosities. I believe they open the drawing wall at 11am (and periodically throughout the day) and that is fun to see.
Another vote for the Wallace Collection.
Finally, I highly recommend a self-guided walking tour of Christopher Wren’s churches in the City. He built 50 or so after the great fire. 50 churches in the one square mile of the City! He completed them while also working on St. Paul’s. They are these lovely little jewel boxes now scattered amongst all the financial buildings. The outsides are very unassuming but the interiors are great. It won’t take very long and is a fun little treasure hunt. Start at St. Bride’s, then make your way to St Magnus the Martyr, St Margaret Lothbury, St Mary Aldermary, and St Stephen Walbrook. There are free guided walking tours as well.
I just came back from South Ken, which has been "my" neighborhood in London since about 2015. Used to go 1-2x a year until sadly interrupted by the pando; went back over New Year's for a reset. South Ken is a great choice because you can take the Piccadilly line straight in from Heathrow — do not bother with the Heathrow Express, the Piccadilly line is longer but you don't have to change trains.
The best pub in the neighborhood is The Hereford Arms on Gloucester Road, and their dining room is great too (but you should book ahead). An alternate best is The Drayton Arms on Old Brompton Road; the second floor is a little theatre. The best supermarket is the Waitrose above the Gloucester Road Tube stop; I have bought a shocking amount of cheese there. There's a cool little Danish bakery that was new to me on Old Brompton Road very close to the South Ken Tube: Ole & Steen.
My. No. 1 not too long walking itin, a few hours with all stops, would be to take the Circle & District line from South Ken to Monument, get out, walk toward the river (pausing to admire the Monument to the Great Fire of London), climb up onto London Bridge, walk across the river, dive into Borough Market (visit: Spice Mountain; the duck sandwich place at the back; and the tiny oyster counter next to the duck place that must have been recommended on WeChat because the line almost always seems to be 50% Chinese visitors.) After duck, turn around and walk down Park Street and buy some Neal's Yard cheese. If the weather is nice, go up The Shard for the observation deck; otherwise, walk out of Borough on Cathedral Street past the replica of the Golden Hinde; turn left on Clink St. (where there used to be a prison, which is how we got "clink" for jails); go through a tunnel and emerge onto Bankside. Pass the rebuilt Globe Theatre (there are tours on non-performance days) and, if the tide is low, look for the steps that will take you down to the waterside, where people will probably be mudlarking. Come back up to street level at the next steps, which puts you at the Tate Modern, and give it a thorough exploration, it's an amazing building. After emerging from the museum, walk across the Millennium (Wiggly) Bridge to St. Paul's, explore that, and then go on from there.
(Not recommending restaurants because you said you are set, but I have thoughts if you need them.)
Also, of course, South Ken puts you right at the Natural History Museum and the V&A. A not-stressful thing to do on an arrival day is to walk up to Natural History and see if the "Wildlife Photographer of the Year" exhibit is open; the images are always gorgeous.
I loved In the Distance, Diaz's first book, so much that I ran out and bought Trust. I know I should like it more than I do. I think it's interesting and very well plotted and written, but it didn't grab me emotionally as did In the Distance. It's worth reading, but I won't re-read it.
I agree. Without giving too much away, it's a book with four sections. The first two novellas are interesting in terms of the characters and perspectives, but they're intentionally not very well written to reflect the time and the writers writing them. The third section is the best, in my view, in terms of the character's experience and perspective. The final I found interesting but unsatisfying. I wish Diaz had created a fifth section, perhaps revealing the perspective of the author of the first section.
Let your daughter drive the itinerary. My daughter was studying in London last year and when we went to visit I had the whole trip planned out. We did some amazing things, ate well and saw so much. On the second to last day, she burst into tears that there wasn't time for her to show us "her London", like where she and her friends get coffee or the fun pub around the corner, or the walk in the local park she likes and the funny lunch guy. Luckily we were able to pivot and squeezed in most of those places, I think these college kids are so excited to show us around for a change.
Follow Love and London on Instagram - she has great tips for seeing the city! Also, be sure to eat at Dishoom (wonderful Indian food) or any of the Ottolenghi restaurants
I made those pan-banged cookies after work today and they were exactly what I needed! Thank you 😌
Dishoom! Ottolenghi delis! Watch the EPL in a pub.
Hi Jenny! I second Dishoom; my favorite meal in London on our last trip.
no london ideas, but i freeze chilies too. i go through jalapenos fast so those stay in the crisper - peel the stem off (do NOT chop it off, just grip the stem and peel back so the stem and little top bit comes off but leaves the pepper fully in tact) before you toss in the fridge and they'll last longer. it's the stems that get moldy. anyway, i freeze habaneros, scotch bonnets, and birds eye chilies. it's great because my grocery store only sells them in containers so you get a lot for short money but i'm not using two dozen of any of those in a recipe haha. i just freeze them whole - as you noted they defrost so quickly, and they're easily to slice when frozen too. they last forever and, let's face it for me, if one of those chilies loses a little potency, they're already mega hot to begin with so that's okay lol! i can always add more.
My son and I just returned from London yesterday specifically to attend football matches. (We are Spurs fans so that particular match didn't go as we hoped...) We both really enjoyed attending a Fulham match (we opted for the hospitality package through the Fulham website - a sit-down dinner in a historic building and tickets - a bit pricey but actually was fun) and a Brentford match. Both smaller grounds, one brand new and one with a lot of history. We purchased our Brentford tickets through their ticket exchange.) We love going to Tottenham and have had good luck purchasing hospitality through their website. Finally, on a prior trip we purchased a hospitality package through at Crystal Palace and really enjoyed that experience as well. The smaller grounds are fun and have a lot of character. Good luck! BTW we took the underground or trains to every ground and it worked really well.
The chicken sounds amazing. I can't use butter with chicken. What non dairy substitute do you suggest?
Just made the Harissa Roasted Chicken!!!! Family voted it the best roasted chicken ever! Thank you!!!!
I made your Harissa chicken tonight and it was NUTS!! My husband said it was one of his top five meals I have ever made! I happened to have a random potato in the fridge so I added that. The veggies were my favorite part and the carrots were sublime. I will definitely make it again and wonder if I could add LOTS more veggies?! So good - thank you!! PS - went to London for my first ever visit in June and I tore my retina on the first full day and after visiting four hospitals, I had to fly home for emergency treatment. I cannot wait to go back!!! Enjoy!
I love your trifecta of food, travel, and books. I just handed The Fault in Our Stars to my 14 yr old. I now plan to have this dinner party, and I already can’t wait for the London recap. Just one other thing - what color paint is that awesome kitchen door?
I haven’t been in a few years, but my don’t-misses every time I get the chance to be there are stationary shopping at Paper Chase, checking out whatever Zara Home has to offer since we don’t have that here and, though it may seem touristy and cliche, high tea at Fortnum & Mason never gets old. It’s everything I want and the service goes out of their to make everyone feel welcome. And last, walking through Hyde Park to visit the Serpentine Gallery. I’m so jealous!
Sir John Soane’s House/Museum is really fabulous. It only takes an hour or so and appeals to all. A house of curiosities. I believe they open the drawing wall at 11am (and periodically throughout the day) and that is fun to see.
Another vote for the Wallace Collection.
Finally, I highly recommend a self-guided walking tour of Christopher Wren’s churches in the City. He built 50 or so after the great fire. 50 churches in the one square mile of the City! He completed them while also working on St. Paul’s. They are these lovely little jewel boxes now scattered amongst all the financial buildings. The outsides are very unassuming but the interiors are great. It won’t take very long and is a fun little treasure hunt. Start at St. Bride’s, then make your way to St Magnus the Martyr, St Margaret Lothbury, St Mary Aldermary, and St Stephen Walbrook. There are free guided walking tours as well.
River Cafe is a must on any London trip and we aIso loved Nopi but I imagine one can’t go wrong with any of Yotam Ottolenghi’s restaurants . Enjoy!